The Unexpected Joys of Market Ethnography: Fortune Telling by an Octogenarian

Aki-san, an 84-year-old former accountant, marathon runner and the current Head of the Shintenji Shopping Arcade Association, discovered his life’s purpose in serving the community as a fortune teller 20 years ago. But he’s no ordinary fortune teller—he’s a numerologist who has delved deeply into the subject, mastering its intricacies.

During our visit to his shop for an interview about the market, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to have my fortune read—all in the name of ethnographic research, of course! What did I learn? That I am fortunate in this life and blessed with strong protection from my ancestors. When I asked if he communicates messages from ancestors, he quickly clarified, “No! That’s the job of the yutas (Okinawan shamans).” Aki-san is a man of numbers, meticulously analyzing their combinations and meanings. After consulting his manual, he determined my life number to be 729. The personality description tied to this number was astonishingly accurate—the most precise I’ve ever received.

I also got a bonus, the colors associated with my life number: indigo, red, and gold. It didn’t take long to observe what his life colours were from the decor! Then, examining the lines on my palm, he concluded that I would fare well in life. I have a fierce determination that gets me to achieve anything I put in my mind to do, apparently!

But most interestingly, he described life as flowing in three-year cycles. According to his diagrams, I am now entering a new cycle, and any “seeds” I plant will blossom within the next two years (I loved his choice of words—seeds and flowers!). He sent me away with several handouts, my next ferry reading!

I suspect he may have offered me a slightly edited, more positive version of my life number reading, but I’m deeply grateful for it. It became clear that his role extends beyond fortune telling; he serves as a counselor, easing the anxieties of his elderly female customers, many of whom have been loyal regulars for over 20 years. In fact, he admitted as much himself, explaining that he listens to their concerns and offers encouragement. He hardly gets young people, it’s their mothers that worry about them mostly!

It seems Okinawans find the concept of retirement alien. When we asked him how long he will be doing this, he said: “for as long as I am healthy, it’s fun and I love it!” A common reply among the octogenarians and nonagenarians we have been talking to.

Our conversation with Aki-san also provided fascinating insights into the arcade’s history and self-organization. He highlighted the pivotal role women have traditionally played in the arcade’s development, and also recounting how even the city hall turned a blind eye when they took matters into their own hands in the 1970s, paving the shopping street and constructing a roof over it. We had noticed that most shops in the arcade sold clothing, and Aki-san explained that the lack of running water makes it difficult for izakayas or eateries.

So far in our research, each arcade association has proven to be unique in its micro-ecology within the complex organism of this vast public market, fostering a symbiotic system of self-regulation and a strong sense of community among shop owners.