Returning to Okinawa

On the Ferry to Okinawa:

I thoroughly enjoyed the day-long ferry journey from Amami Oshima to Okinawa. After three hectic weeks of setting up my fieldwork in Amami, reconnecting with friends, and hosting visitors, this trip offered a much-needed chance to rest. While waking up at 4 a.m., especially in winter, to reach the port by 5 a.m. isn’t my favorite thing, it’s absolutely worth it. There’s something incredibly soothing about crossing the southern Japanese archipelago, surrounded by the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean for 13 hours.

I love the communal resting areas on Japanese ferries—like capsule hotels but without walls! I also enjoy getting up at each port call as we sail south from Amami Oshima to Tokunoshima, Okinoerabu, Yoron, and finally to Nago Port in northern Okinawa, ending in the capital Naha. Observing who boards and disembarks at each stop reveals the natural connections between these neighboring islands. Today, I struck up a conversation with two doctors-in-training from Tokyo, completing their mandatory service month on remote islands—a fascinating glimpse into life in Japan’s more isolated regions.

This ferry starts in Kagoshima in the south of the Kyushu island and terminates in Naha, a 24 hour sail, crossing two prefectures. But the highlight of my day was receiving a discounted fare this morning. By showing my ferry card as a resident of Amami Oshima, I secured a substantially subsidized rate—just 8,000 yen for a 13 hours journey (around 51 euros or 90 NZD). It’s an important bonus for those living on Japan’s remote islands!  [by comparison my Waiheke island pass costs me about NZ$35 for a 40 minutes trip!]

Cinema at Sea: What a Fabulous Week in Okinawa!

This week in Okinawa has been nothing short of amazing! Coinciding with my research fieldwork in Naha was the 2nd Okinawa Pan-Pacific International Film Festival, offering me the opportunity to immerse myself in a variety of film screenings, as well as talks by directors, producers, and actors.

I caught up with Migiwa Ozawa, the New Zealand-based producer of Pacific Mother, and attended the premiere of Tina, the event’s closing film. Watching Pacific Mother for the second time was just as refreshing as the first—its stunning cinematography and thought-provoking exploration of childbirth issues got the full attention of the packed theater.

As for Tina, what an incredible film! It completely took me by surprise, and made me laugh and tear in equal measure. It left me thinking that everyone could use a Samoan choir teacher in their lives! The other kiwi film I watched was “We were dangerous” and was lucky to talk to one of its lead actresses, the wonderful Erana James (best leading performance award) whose performance captured the rebellious spirit of a young Maori girl in a “character reforming” school with all the undertones of racism, colonialism and repressing Christianity.

I absolutely loved the concept of this "cinema at sea" film festival putting in focus the islands and their creativity. It was inspiring to see so many films and documentaries from the South Pacific and Aotearoa (New Zealand) showcased (including Mike Jonathan as the festival’s Director in Focus), highlighting the rich storytelling and cultural diversity of the region and Okinawa was the perfect host!

Goya: Okinawa’s Superfood

I’ve developed an addiction to fresh Goya (bitter melon) juice.

My daily dose comes from a lovely lady at the local market here in Naha where I spend all my time (day and night) mapping its communicative ecology. For the past 10 years, she has run a tiny stall in a bustling spot near the entrance of Kokusai Dori, in the main arcade. Every day, she wakes up at 5 a.m. to prepare fresh vegetable juices, and the quality is undeniable—you can truly taste the freshness in every sip. Now that I am regular I get some rice cakes as a treat, apparently an Okinawan shop owners expression of appreciation for your custom.

Despite its intensely bitter taste, I swear by its health benefits, which have had an immediate impact on my overall well-being. For months, I struggled with inflammation and acidity, even after trying various medications. Goya juice, however, has been a game-changer. Goya isn’t just a juice ingredient; it’s also the star of Champuru, Okinawa’s iconic dish. This versatile superfood continues to amaze me, both for its culinary uses and its health benefits. (all in the name of Ethnographic Research  )

“Okinyawa”: Where Cats Manage Shops  

Michan was once a homeless cat, but one day he wandered into this store and became the manager. It’s true—he sleeps most of the day, but he has trained his staff well!

While shopping for a towel at a store in the back of a large shopping arcade in Naha, an elderly lady passed by and pointed at a green cat-themed towel expressing her preference. Curious, she started asking me questions in simple Japanese, which I could understand and respond to. She was delighted and took me into the shop to introduce me to the owner, who was feeding her cats. The lady excitedly told the owner she had found a foreigner who speaks Japanese (an overstatement, of course!). Somehow, we ended up chatting, and that’s how I learned about Michan, the famous cat!

The owner even drew a funny little cat face on my shopping bag, pointing out the “meow” sound in “Okinawa” (or “Okinyawa,” as they playfully call it) .

I loved the experience and am grateful that the old woman’s curiosity pushed me to use my limited Japanese—about 10 sentences’ worth! Her curiosity made her seem so youthful, and it was heartwarming to connect with her.

I love exploring this market. Despite its busy atmosphere, the locals haven’t lost their curiosity or their desire to connect with others. Perhaps that’s the essence of Okinawa’s character: open, friendly, and always ready for a chat.