Okinawa's Octogenarian and Nonagenarian Market Women: A Testament to the Island's Character and Its Ikigai Spirit

I fell in love with Naha's public markets during my first visit in 2017. Since then, I have returned to this vibrant place on every trip to Okinawa, dreaming of one day starting a project to document the remarkable spirit of the markets and the inspiring stories of the extraordinary elderly women I’ve met over the years. Thanks to my Japan Foundation Research Fellowship, this dream is now becoming a reality. This year, I am collaborating with my colleagues in Okinawa, Dr. Ayano Ginoza with whom we will be exploring the oral history of gender in the market and Dr. Junko Konishi who whom we will be mapping its soundscape with the support of Prof Henry Jonhson from Otago University. I feel incredibly fortunate!

Public markets play a vital role in community development, fostering place-making, employment, and entrepreneurship. Each woman’s story is unique: from the kimono seller who has occupied the same spot for 50 years (and from whom I have bought several yukatas, tsumugi and kimonos over the years), to the tempura shop ladies who have served simple island food for half a century, the Okinawan doughnut family who have been in operation for over 60 years, the vegetable stall vendor who has worked in the back alleys of Makishi Market for six decades, and the women in their 90s who continue to sew traditional Okinawan outfits and sell padded children’s kimonos, these are just a few examples of the elderly women who remain active in the market, providing an incredible sense of continuity to Naha’s longest-running public market. What began as a black market during the U.S. occupation has evolved into a complex of arcades, each with its own unique way of self-organization and operation.

Several themes are already emerging from their stories: the resilience of octogenarian and nonagenarian women, the impact of war, the importance of social relations, and the intricate organization of the market. The flows between neighboring shops and arcades reflect a microcosm of Okinawa itself, shaped by chain migration and the effects of historical flows. Over the years, the nature of customers has shifted, with the market adapting to new demands, such as the rise of izakayas. Originally catering to women, the market saw women take up stalls selling women’s clothing, creating a generational legacy in many stalls. For many families, these women-run stores became the primary source of income. The market has experienced ups and downs, peaks and lows, but the perseverance of these women has been unwavering.

The postwar boom saw trading in army items, particularly during the Vietnam War, with stalls shifting their focus from U.S. Army blankets to uniforms, and later to kimonos, Western women’s apparel, and food. The reversion of Okinawa to Japan brought significant changes, including the arrival of large shopping malls in Naha, which impacted the market’s dynamics. Yet, through it all, these women have adapted to the times, demonstrating remarkable resilience and an enduring commitment to their craft and community.

When asked how long they plan to keep coming to the market, they all said, for as long as they can! The markets are not only a place of income for them but also a "life purpose", providing an opportunity to get out of their house everyday and connect with friends and customers.

Their stories are not just about survival but about thriving against the odds, embodying the Ikingai spirit—a testament to the character of Okinawa and its people.